Jean Paul & Charly Thevenet Morgon Vieilles Vignes 2024

Jean-Paul Thévenet was one of the pioneers of naturally inclined Beaujolais producers who developed natural wine there in the 1980s. Now joined at the domaine by his son Charly, who has helped get things right in the vineyard, the domaine has grown significantly, as Charly has bought some of his own vineyards in Regnié. They make the wines together following the Chauvet guidelines of a cool carbonic maceration and then finishing fermentation in used barrels from Burgundy. Sulfites are only used in small quantities at bottling.

The Thévenets’ winemaking style is traditional but unusually gentle. They use whole clusters, indigenous yeasts, low-temperature fermentation, and an infusion-style maceration without aggressive extraction. The grapes are sourced from vines about 77 years old in Douby and are fermented with native yeasts, without punchdowns or pumpovers, followed by extended élevage.

Think of this wine as autumn in a glass. Silky, fragrant, red-fruited Gamay with serious old-vine depth but very little heaviness. It has that appealing intersection of Beaujolais fruit and almost Pinot Noir-like finesse. The 2024 is especially geared toward freshness, perfume and texture rather than power. 

Pairing: Pork tenderloin with mustard glaze, a wild mushroom tart, roasted beets with goat cheese, and Ratatouille.