Vincent Gaudry Sancerre Melodie de Vieilles Vignes 2021
For those in the know, Vincent Gaudry has been handcrafting some of the most essential, soulful wines of the Loire River Valley for over 30 years… in his craftsman cellar in the tiny hamlet of Chambre near Sury-en-Vaux, Sancerre. These days, it may be easy to overlook Sancerre as a simple Parisian bistro wine or dismiss sauvignon blanc for the intellectual credentials of chenin blanc; however, one visit with Vincent Gaudry turns those who meet him into true believers. A journey through the Sancerre terroir with a virtuoso like Vincent is akin to stepping through an unmarked door into a hidden universe filled with colors, flavors, and textures one did not previously know existed. We refer to Vincent Gaudry as the “last Jedi of Sancerre,” due to his mastery of the complexities of the Sancerre terroir and his humble transparency and insight when speaking about his deeply held beliefs regarding the power of the earth and energy exchange between himself, his vineyards, and wines. Vincent is a true minimalist whose guiding principle is “Trust in Nature.” Gaudry wines are in tune with the elements, instilling a feeling of being profoundly connected to the land. Driven by his deep respect for the wisdom of past generations of local vignerons, Gaudry’s wines are inspired by history and, as a result, are among the most transparent, soulful, and authentic in the region. The domaine was established by Vincent’s grandfather with only a few hectares of vines before being passed to Vincent’s father, Georges, who gradually enlarged the estate to 9.5 hectares. Vincent was only 16 years old when he joined his father in the family business in 1991, taking over entirely in 1993 when his father fell unexpectedly ill. Today, he and his wife Séverine, who handles the administrative aspects of the domaine, farm 11 hectares of vineyards with organic, biodynamic, and regenerative practices. Getting rid of the chemicals in the vineyard became the first priority for young Vincent. He immediately began converting to organic farming in 1995, obtaining organic certification in 2002. With a desire to go even further, he developed a deep appreciation for biodynamic farming and the balance it brought to his vineyards. He began farming his vineyards with biodynamic principles in 2000, becoming the first producer in Sancerre with a Demeter certification in 2004. Witnessing firsthand the positive relationship between the vineyards, forests, and their animal inhabitants brought on by his regenerative agricultural practices, Vincent works with nature and a sober pragmatism to maintain a balance in his vineyards and wine.
Gaudry’s vineyards are planted on all three predominant Sancerre terroirs: silex (flinty soils: structure, length, and lift), which runs in a narrow band along a fault line passing underneath the town of Sancerre, terres blanches (Kimmeridgian clay-limestone marl: mouthfeel), and caillottes (hard, weathered Oxfordian limestone: nose, aromatics). Many of the domaine’s parcels are over 60 years old, which is relatively unheard of in today’s Sancerre, with its focus on high-yielding quantity over quality. This focus is exemplified in Gaudry’s cuvée ‘Mélodie de Vieilles Vignes,’ made mostly from one parcel in the lieu-dit La Rabotine, a 1.5ha west-exposed slope on Kimmeridgian clay terres blanches in Sury-en-Vaux, where the vines are 50 to 90 years old, from old massale-selection sauvignon vines. Vincent refers to this wine as “bottling the wisdom of the old vines”. Vincent plows this vineyard by horse, as the topsoil is no more than a foot deep before reaching the limestone bedrock, which is hard to penetrate for the roots. This is an outstanding Sancerre, showing elegant aromas of ripe pear, quince, citrus, and lime. The soils’ minerality is captured in the concentrated fruit, which unfolds in layers of complexity. Gaudry’s amazing attention to detail from vineyard to bottle shines through in this cuvée’s exceptionally long finish. A superb food wine that will improve in bottle for several years. Vinification – Mélodie de Vieilles Vignes is hand harvested in small crates before being destemmed, and spontaneously fermented with natural yeasts in one large 60 hectoliter used French foudre. Malolactic fermentation is spontaneous. It is aged on the fine lees without bâtonnage for 18 months in the same foudre before being bottled according to the lunar calendar, unfined and unfiltered. Sancerre Site: Sury-en-Vaux Lieu-dit: La Rabotine Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc (planted from old massale selection) Vine Age: 50-90+ years old Soil: Kimmeridgian clay with terres blanches bedrock Vinification: Spontaneously fermented with natural yeasts in one large 60 hectoliter used French foudre Aging: 18 months on the lees in stainless steel tanks without bâtonnage MLF: Spontaneous Farming: Certified Organic (Ecocert), Certified Biodynamic (Demeter) Fining/Filtration: None Vegan: Yes
Vincent Gaudry Sancerre Melodie de Vieilles Vignes 2021
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